Horizontal Hives

A horizontal hive is a type of hive in which the frames or top bars are lined up side by side in a single long body instead of in boxes stacked on top of each other. The colony grows sideways and there is no need to lift boxes; that is why it is preferred especially by beekeepers who want to protect their back and who work a small number of hives in a stationary apiary. The main types are the top-bar hive (Kenyan and Tanzanian types), the Layens and the long Langstroth.

How does a horizontal hive work?

The colony lives in one section of the long body; the unused part is separated off with a movable follower board. As the colony grows, the follower board is moved back and new frames or bars are added. The brood nest usually stays on the side near the entrance, and the bees store honey on the far side of the brood nest, towards the far end of the body.

The harvest is done not by lifting off an upper super as in a vertical hive, but by taking out the honey combs at the far end from the brood nest one by one.

What types of horizontal hive are there?

Top-bar hive (Kenyan and Tanzanian types)

Instead of frames, only a top bar is used; the bees build comb freely downwards from the bar. In the Kenyan type the side walls slope inwards; this shape reduces the bees attaching the comb to the wall. In the Tanzanian type the walls are vertical. It is cheap to build and can be made from local materials; that is why it is common in Africa and in hobby beekeeping.

Layens hive

A horizontal hive with deep, narrow frames, developed in the 19th century by the Frenchman Georges de Layens. Because it has frames, the comb is sturdy and can be extracted. It is still used in Spain and some parts of Eastern Europe.

Long Langstroth

A type in which standard Langstroth frames are used side by side in a single long body. Its biggest advantage is that the frames are interchangeable with the other Langstroth hives and nucs in the apiary; the comb can be extracted in an extractor.

Traditional horizontal hives

Log hives lying horizontally and clay hives built into walls also belong to this group; however, since they have no frames or bars, they count as fixed-comb hives.

Advantages of the horizontal hive

• No lifting boxes: No heavy supers are lifted off; this is the biggest gain for the back.
• Calm inspection: Frames are examined in turn, opening only the part needed; the whole colony is not exposed.
• Easy space adjustment: The volume is adjusted by moving the follower board back and forth.
• Simple construction: Top-bar types can be made from local timber; no foundation is needed.
• Observation: Some models have a side observation window; comb development can be watched without opening the hive.

Disadvantages of the horizontal hive

• Limited honey space: Boxes cannot be added as in a vertical hive; in a strong flow space runs short and the swarming tendency can increase.
• Hard to move: The long, heavy body is not suited to migratory beekeeping.
• Fragile natural comb: In top-bar types the comb softens in the heat and breaks easily; it cannot be spun in an extractor and is harvested by cutting and crushing or pressing.
• Non-standard: Top bars and Layens frames cannot be exchanged with the hives around you.
• Takes up space: More room is needed in the apiary for the same number of colonies.

Managing a horizontal hive step by step

1. Comb guide: Fit a wax strip or a triangular guide along the middle of the top bars; otherwise the bees build comb across the bars and the hive becomes impossible to inspect.
2. Correct bar width: For brood combs the bars should be about 32–35 mm wide; if the spacing is wrong the combs fuse together.
3. Expansion: Add new empty bars not in the middle of the brood nest but between the brood nest and the honey area, or at the edge; an empty bar placed in the middle of the brood splits the nest in two and causes heat loss.
4. Inspection: Before lifting a comb, free any edge attached to the wall with a thin knife; always hold the comb upright and turn it only in the vertical plane.
5. Harvest: Take the fully capped honey combs at the end farthest from the brood nest; leave the winter stores right next to the cluster.
6. Varroa monitoring: Use a mesh floor and a counting tray; mite control is essential in a horizontal hive too.

How wintering differs in a horizontal hive

In a vertical hive the cluster eats its way up through the stores. In a horizontal hive the cluster moves sideways. For this reason the winter honey combs must be lined up next to the cluster in an unbroken line, with no empty bars in between. If the cluster meets an empty comb during a cold spell, it may be unable to reach the honey a few combs away and starve.

The unused part is closed off with the follower board and, if necessary, this space is filled with insulation. The entrance is kept close to the cluster and narrow.

Who is a horizontal hive suitable for?

It suits beekeepers who work a stationary apiary, look after a small number of colonies, find heavy lifting difficult and are interested in natural comb production. It is not suitable for migratory beekeepers, those aiming for a high yield of extracted honey, or those working large numbers of hives. If the Langstroth is common where you are, a long Langstroth gives you both the comfort of horizontal working and frame compatibility.