Hives and Hive Components

Hives and hive components are the parts, such as the hive stand, floor, brood box, frames, queen excluder, super, inner cover and roof, that make up the structure in which a honey bee colony lives and the beekeeper works. Each part has a specific function, and all are designed around a single measurement called the bee space. Knowing the parts makes it easier to set up a hive correctly, adjust it to the season and solve problems.

The key measurement of the hive: bee space

What makes the movable-frame hive possible is a single measurement. Bees leave gaps of roughly 6–9 mm open as passageways:

• Wider gaps get filled with brace comb.
• Narrower gaps get sealed with propolis.

That is why hive dimensions are not arbitrary. Every gap, between frame and wall, between top bars and inner cover, and between the bars of the lower and upper boxes, is kept within this range. When mixing parts from different manufacturers, this measurement is what most often goes wrong.

What are the parts of a hive? (From bottom to top)

Whatever the hive type, the parts of a vertical hive are stacked from bottom to top in the following order. On the hive in the photo below, the names of the parts (in German) are written on them.

Hive stand

Raises the hive off the ground; keeps away damp, rot and pests such as toads and ants, and spares the beekeeper's back. The stand must be sturdy and level; the hive should tilt slightly forward so that rain and condensation run out through the entrance.

Floor (bottom board)

This is the base of the hive and usually also forms the entrance. A solid floor keeps things warm but collects moisture and debris. A mesh (varroa) floor provides ventilation; falling mites and debris drop into the drawer (tray) beneath the mesh. Mite counts and debris on the tray (wax cappings, pollen, dead brood) give valuable information about the colony's condition.

Entrance fittings

• Entrance reducer: narrows the entrance for weak colonies, during a dearth and in winter; protects against robbing and cold.
• Mouse guard: a perforated metal strip; lets bees through but keeps mice out of the hive in winter.
• Landing board: the ledge where the bees land.
• Pollen trap: fitted to the entrance when needed to collect pollen.

Brood box

The box where the queen lays, brood is reared and winter stores are kept. It is the heart of the colony and is not harvested. Depending on the hive type, it is one or two boxes.

Frame, wire and foundation

A frame consists of a top bar, two side bars and a bottom bar. Shouldered (self-spacing) side bars automatically give the right spacing when frames are pushed together. Horizontal wires strung across the frame carry the foundation and stop the comb from breaking in the extractor. Foundation makes the bees build straight comb with worker-sized cells.

Dummy board

A solid, frame-sized board that narrows the width of the hive. It reduces the space of a weak colony and cuts heat loss in winter; some types are also used as feeders.

Queen excluder

A wire or plastic grid that lets workers through but not the queen; it is placed between the brood box and the super and prevents brood in the super. In a weak colony, and in a super where the bees have not yet drawn comb, it can slow work down; it is not needed under all conditions.

Super

The box where honey for harvesting is stored. Keeping it separate from the brood box lets you harvest without disturbing the colony too much. During a flow, as many supers as needed are added; depending on height, they can be full-depth or half-depth.

Inner cover and bee escape

The inner cover is a flat board that sits on top of the top bars; it moderates the internal climate and stops the roof from getting glued down with propolis. The hole in the middle is used for placing a feeder or fitting a bee escape. A bee escape lets bees go down out of the super but stops them coming back up; it is fitted a day or two before the harvest.

Roof

Protects the hive from rain, sun and wind. A telescoping roof, with sides that hang down, sheds water well; a flat migratory lid suits hives packed tightly side by side and being moved. A roof covered with sheet metal lasts a long time; in windy places, a weight is placed on top or it is strapped down. In winter, a leaking roof is deadlier than the cold.

Hive components summary table

Hive material: wood or foam?

• Wood: breathes, can be repaired, and can be scraped and surface-disinfected with a flame. It needs maintenance and is heavy.
• Foam (polystyrene, polyurethane): light and well insulated. Sensitive to scratches and knocks; a flame cannot be used, so disinfection is done by washing with a suitable disinfectant.

Being able to treat it with a flame in an apiary with suspected disease is an important advantage of wood. For notifiable diseases such as foulbrood, however, the official veterinary services decide what happens to the hives and frames.

Hive setup and maintenance

1. Raise it off the ground: damp and rot are reduced.
2. Tilt it slightly forward: condensation and rainwater run out through the entrance.
3. Secure it: make the hive and roof secure against storms and animals.
4. Adjust the entrance: narrow or widen it according to the season and colony strength.
5. Paint the outside: use a light-coloured exterior paint; do not paint the inside. The paint must be completely dry before the bees move in.
6. Winter maintenance: scrape empty boxes, repair cracks, set aside warped parts; protect empty combs against wax moth.

Common mistakes

• Mixing parts from different manufacturers without checking dimensions.
• Putting the inner cover on upside down and breaking the bee space; brace comb forms between the top bars and the cover.
• Spacing frames too far apart and having brace comb built in the gap.
• Painting the inside of the hive or applying a scented preservative.
• Not repairing a leaking roof before winter.