Moving Hives

Moving hives (hive transport) covers all the preparation, closing up, ventilation, strapping and opening on arrival needed to take colonies from one place to another without losing bees, breaking combs or suffocating the colony. It is one of the riskiest jobs in the apiary; but almost all losses come from avoidable mistakes. The basic rule is simple: close the hive in the evening when all the bees are inside, ventilate it well, strap it tightly and move it in the cool hours.

How many metres or kilometres should a hive be moved?

A forager memorises the location of its hive and flies back to the same spot every time. If the hive is shifted a short distance, the bees return to the old spot, find it empty, cluster there and are lost. That is why beekeepers have long followed the same practical rule: move a hive either very little or far enough.

• A few metres: The hive is shifted by no more than half a metre to a metre a day; the bees easily find the new position each day.
• At least 3 km: The bees learn the new site from scratch. In open country with plenty of forage, 5 km or more is safer, because foragers can work at that distance.
• Distances in between (e.g. 50 m – 2 km): This is the most problematic case. The solution is to take the hive first to a place more than 3–5 km away, leave it there for about three weeks and then bring it to the target spot.

Colonies that have not flown for a long time in winter tolerate a short move more easily, because they learn the new site on their first flight. In a short-distance move, putting an obstacle such as a branch or a board in front of the entrance helps the bees make a reorientation flight, but on its own it is no guarantee.

How do you prepare to move a hive?

Preparation starts a day or two before moving day. Leaving it to the last minute means hunting for straps in the dark and cracks left open.

1. Check the colonies: Don't move queenless, diseased or very weak colonies. If legal documents are required (in Türkiye, a veterinary health report and a bee transport certificate for moves between provinces), prepare them in advance.
2. Reduce the weight: Full supers make the hive heavy and increase the risk of comb breaking during transport. If possible, take off the honey before moving or transport the supers separately.
3. Close up the frames: Make up the full number of frames in each box and push the frames tight against each other. If gaps are left, the frames slide on the road, crush bees and can kill the queen.
4. Fasten the parts together: The floor, box(es) and roof must become a single unit. The most practical method is a ratchet hive strap; hive staples or metal hive clips are also used.
5. Seal holes and cracks: A gap between boxes, a space in the roof or rotten wood turns into an escape route for bees on the road.

How do you close the entrance and provide ventilation?

In a closed hive, bees quickly produce a great deal of heat and moisture. A colony agitated by jolting and noise heats up even more. With inadequate ventilation, a colony can overheat and die within hours; the combs soften, honey runs and the bees are coated in it. This is the most common loss in transport, and the easiest to prevent.

• Closing the entrance: The entrance is closed with wire mesh, foam or a perforated entrance block. Foam may be enough in cool weather; in hot weather choose wire mesh.
• Top ventilation: A mesh travelling screen (migratory screen) fitted in place of the roof is the most effective solution. In hot regions it is almost essential on long journeys.
• Mesh floor: Floors with a mesh base are a great help during transport; so that the underside is not blocked, the hives should not sit flat on the vehicle bed, and air must reach the bottom mesh.
• Space for strong colonies: Adding an empty box to a very crowded colony creates a cool space where the bees can cluster.

Why are hives moved at night? Getting the timing right

The time to move is when all the foragers are in the hive: in the evening after flying has stopped and the last bees at the entrance have gone in, or very early in the morning before flying starts. In a hive closed during the day, foragers are left outside and lost.

• In the evening, wait until there are no bees left at the entrance; if necessary, drive the cluster at the entrance inside with a little smoke.
• The cool of the night both prevents overheating and reduces the number of bees flying off and scattering from an opened hive.
• Postpone moving on heatwave days; if it is unavoidable, fit the journey into the coolest hours of the night.
• Large commercial operations sometimes move hives at night with the entrances open on a vehicle covered with netting; this method takes experience and an uninterrupted journey, and for the small beekeeper closed entrances and good ventilation are safer.

How are hives loaded and strapped onto a vehicle?

During loading the hive must not be tipped, dropped or knocked hard. The whole load must behave like a single block.

• Frame direction: Place the hives so that the frames run parallel to the direction of travel. When braking and pulling away, the frames then do not swing on their lugs and knock into each other.
• Tight stacking: Line the hives up side by side with no gaps; heavy hives go at the bottom and at the front of the vehicle.
• Securing to the vehicle: Each row must also be strapped to the vehicle bed. Strapping the hive together does not replace strapping the load to the vehicle.
• Top cover: Covering the load with a net stops escaping bees from scattering along the road. A tarpaulin, however, cuts off ventilation; don't cover hives with a closed tarpaulin in hot weather.

Heat stress and checks on the road

The journey itself must also be planned. Driving style, stops and where you park decide the colony's fate.

• Smooth driving: Sudden braking, sharp turns and going fast on bad roads break combs.
• No waiting in the sun: Leaving a loaded vehicle in the summer sun is the most common fatal mistake. If you need a break, keep it short and in the shade.
• Checks along the way: On a long journey, check the straps, entrance closures and the sound of the hives every few hours.
• Arrival time: Plan the journey so that it is still cool on arrival and the hives can be opened while they are calm.

How are hives opened on arrival?

1. Set them down: Place the hives level and stable on stands prepared in advance and adjust the direction of the entrances. Arranging hives in groups rather than a single straight row reduces drifting.
2. Let them settle: After the jolting, allow the hives 10–20 minutes to calm down.
3. Open the entrances one at a time: With a little smoke and standing to the side of the hive, open the entrances one by one. Opening them all at once throws the apiary into chaos.
4. Provide water: Make sure there is a clean water source nearby right after arrival.
5. Don't interfere: Don't open the hives for the first day or two; let the bees make orientation flights and learn the new site.
6. First check: Within about a week, check that the queen is laying and that no combs have broken; write the arrival date and location in your records.

Safety in transport and what to do in an accident

During a move the colony is on edge. A strap coming loose, an entrance closure falling off or a hive toppling over can quickly turn into a serious incident.

• Keep protective clothing, a veil, gloves and a smoker ready to light within easy reach in the vehicle cab.
• Carry spare straps, wire, tape and foam with you.
• If you, or someone with you, are allergic to bee stings, carry the emergency medication your doctor has recommended.
• In an accident, first warn the traffic and notify the authorities; do not approach the load before the bees have calmed down and without protective clothing.

Moving small boxes in a car

Small hives such as mating nucs, swarm boxes or nucleus boxes can be carried in the boot; but the same rules apply. The box must be able to get air, be wedged so it cannot tip over, and the car must never be left in the sun. In summer a closed car can heat up within minutes enough to kill a colony.