Growth Planning

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Growth planning is planning to increase the number of colonies in the apiary at a rate that matches forage capacity, labour, equipment and the market. Unplanned growth leads to less frequent checks, falling yields and the spread of disease. The soundest way to grow is to make splits from your own colonies; it is cheap and brings in no disease from outside.

Why does growing an apiary need a plan?

Increasing the number of colonies is a natural goal in beekeeping. But if colony numbers grow faster than the infrastructure that supports them, the operation does not get stronger – it gets weaker. The common story of many people who give up beekeeping is that they grew rapidly over a few years and then lost, one after another, colonies they could not keep on top of.

Four things limit growth: forage capacity, labour, equipment and capital/market. Whichever of these is tightest sets your rate of growth.

The four factors that limit growth

1. Forage capacity

The number of colonies that can be placed in an apiary is limited by the nectar and pollen sources around it. Overcrowding:

  • Lowers the yield per colony,
  • Increases robbing and bees moving between hives (drifting),
  • Speeds up the spread of disease and varroa,
  • Intensifies competition for forage with wild bees.

A hive scale shows this limit clearly: if the weight gain per colony falls as the number of colonies rises, capacity has been exceeded. The solution is not to put more hives in the same place but to open a new apiary site.

2. Labour

This is the most underestimated limit. During the swarming season every colony needs to be checked once a week. Work out how many colonies you can really check at that interval; that is your growth limit. A beekeeper who cannot keep up checks less often; swarms get away, disease is spotted late and losses increase.

3. Equipment

As the number of colonies grows, so must the number of hives, frames, supers, feeders and nuc boxes and the extraction capacity. The most common bottleneck is drawn comb: bees can only draw a limited amount of comb in a season, and splits need it most.

4. Capital and market

As production increases, sales channels must grow too. Honey that cannot be sold is more expensive than honey that was never produced: jars, storage and labour have been spent without any return.

New beeswax foundation fitted in a wooden frame
A frame of foundation. Every new colony needs several drawn combs; drawn comb is the most common bottleneck to growth. Photo: Waugsberg / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
Worker bees drawing new comb on foundation
Bees drawing out foundation. Comb building needs a strong nectar flow or feeding; that is why splits depend on timing. Photo: APHA (National Bee Unit), Crown Copyright · Open Government Licence v3.0 (Crown Copyright)

In what ways can the number of colonies be increased?

MethodProsCons
Splitting (making nucs)The cheapest way; keeps your own genetics and brings in no disease from outsideReduces those colonies' honey yield that year
Splitting with bought queensSpeeds up splitting, can improve geneticsNeeds a reliable breeder and a health certificate
Catching swarmsAlmost freeOrigin and health status unknown; needs observation in a separate location
Buying nucs or package beesFastRisk of disease and unsuitable genetics; costly

Of these methods, splitting is the soundest in terms of both cost and biosecurity. Every colony brought in from outside can carry diseases and pests into the apiary; so it should be bought from a reliable source and monitored separately from the others for a while.

Frames being transferred from a donor colony into five-frame nuc boxes
Several nucs being made from a single strong colony. Each nuc is given brood, stores and plenty of young bees. Photo: APHA (National Bee Unit), Crown Copyright · Open Government Licence v3.0 (Crown Copyright)
Five-frame nuc boxes arranged in a circle around a donor hive in a meadow
Nucs made from one colony, arranged in a circle. Splitting is the cheapest way to grow with your own genetics. Photo: APHA (National Bee Unit), Crown Copyright · Open Government Licence v3.0 (Crown Copyright)
Small swarm settled on the branch of a young apple tree
A caught swarm is a free colony, but its origin is unknown; it should be monitored in a separate location before joining the apiary. Photo: APHA (National Bee Unit), Crown Copyright · Open Government Licence v3.0 (Crown Copyright)

Growing by splitting, step by step

  1. Choose the time: In spring, when colonies have become strong and drones are plentiful; the splits must have time to build up before the main nectar flow.
  2. Choose the donor colony: Healthy, gentle, productive colonies; never split a colony showing signs of disease.
  3. Set up the nuc: Give it frame(s) of brood, a frame of honey and pollen and plenty of young bees.
  4. Provide a queen: A ripe queen cell, a mated queen, or let the nuc rear its own queen.
  5. Feed and protect: Reduce the entrance, be careful about robbing, give syrup if necessary.
  6. Check: Confirm that the new queen has started laying; unite nucs that have failed.
Fresh brood laid by a new queen in a mating box
A new queen's first brood in a mating box. For a split to count as successful, laying must be seen. Photo: APHA (National Bee Unit), Crown Copyright · Open Government Licence v3.0 (Crown Copyright)

What is a realistic rate of growth?

Technically it is possible to double the number of colonies in a year; but that means giving up most of that year's honey yield. For most operations the healthy balance is to devote part of the season to growth and part to production: for example, making splits from some of the colonies in spring and keeping the rest for honey.

Review the growth plan every year in this order: first make up the winter losses, then complete your target of back-up nucs, and only then move on to net increase.

Back-ups are part of growth too

Growth is not just an increase in numbers but the capacity to absorb losses. Winter loss is normal; keeping enough nucs in the apiary to make up for it is both cheaper and safer than looking for colonies from outside in spring. Laying spare queens also stop the loss of a queen from turning into a crisis.

When should you stop? If yield per colony is falling, checks are becoming less frequent and swarms are getting away, disease and varroa are being seen more often, the harvest cannot be processed on time and the work has stopped being a pleasure, you have exceeded your capacity. Reducing the number of colonies is also a plan.

Common mistakes

  • Splitting every colony: That year you are left with neither honey nor strong colonies.
  • Splitting a weak colony: Two weak colonies produce less than one strong colony and have a harder time getting through the winter.
  • Making splits too late: Nucs that cannot build up by autumn are lost over winter.
  • Buying colonies or comb from an unknown source: This can bring notifiable diseases such as foulbrood into the apiary.
  • Thinking about equipment afterwards: Missing frames and boxes on splitting day is the most common gap in a plan.

Frequently asked questions

How many splits can you make from one hive?

That depends on the colony's strength and the season. Several nucs can be taken from a very strong colony; but then you should not expect honey from that colony that year.

Is it better to catch swarms or to make splits?

Splitting is safer, because you know the colony's health and genetics. Swarms are valuable but should be monitored separately for a while before joining the apiary.

How many hives can I put in my apiary?

There is no fixed number; it depends on local forage and the other apiaries nearby. If yield per colony has started to fall, you have reached the limit.

What equipment should I stock up on first as I grow?

Frames, foundation and nuc boxes. Drawn comb is the most valuable reserve; think twice before melting it down.

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