Honey Extractors

The honey extractor drum is the cylindrical body of a centrifugal honey extractor that houses the frame baskets, collects the honey flung out of the cells and releases it through the honey gate at the bottom. Because it is the surface in contact with honey for the longest time, its material, base shape and honey gate directly affect honey quality. This page describes the parts of the drum, selection criteria, use and maintenance.

What is a honey extractor drum and what does it do?

An extractor consists of two main parts: the rotating basket assembly and the fixed drum (tank) surrounding it. As the basket spins, honey is thrown out of the cells, hits the inner wall of the drum, runs down and collects at the bottom. The drum both collects this honey and forms the load-bearing body of the machine: the spindle, gears or motor, lid and legs are all attached to it.

In everyday speech the term “extractor tank” is sometimes also used for a settling tank with a strainer. For gated containers in which extracted honey is left to settle, see the “Honey Settling Tanks” page; this page is about the body of the machine.

Parts of a honey extractor drum

• Body: Cylindrical, welded or seamed sheet metal. The wall should be even and smooth; scratches and dents hold honey and dirt.
• Base: It can be flat, sloped or conical. A base sloping towards the gate, or a conical one, lets the honey drain completely; a flat base leaves some honey behind.
• Honey gate: At the lowest point of the base. The common type is the wide-mouthed guillotine gate with a sliding shutter; it lets even thick honey flow without clogging.
• Lid: Keeps out dust, bees and moisture, and catches splashing honey while running. A transparent lid makes it easy to watch the spin. Motorised machines may have a safety device that stops the machine when the lid is opened.
• Legs: They should be sturdy, able to be fixed to the floor, and high enough for a bucket to fit under the gate.
• Cross bar: The bar running across the top of the drum that carries the spindle, gears or motor.

What material should a honey extractor drum be made of?

Honey is acidic; unsuitable metal corrodes over time and leaches into the honey. The accepted materials for the drum are:

• Stainless steel: Food-grade stainless steel (mostly grade 304) is the most common and durable choice. Welds should be even and smooth.
• Food-grade plastic: Used in small, light machines. Look for the food-contact symbol; scratched plastic is hard to clean.

The galvanised sheet and painted inner surfaces found on old machines are not suitable for food production: zinc and paint pass into the honey. Historic wooden and galvanised drums are valuable specimens in museums, but they have no place in honey production today. Brass or uncoated metal gates have the same problem; the gate should be stainless steel or food-grade plastic.

What to look for when choosing a drum?

1. Diameter and basket fit: The drum diameter must accommodate baskets that take the frame size you use. If you will extract brood-size (deep) frames, take this into account from the start.
2. Volume below the baskets: The space below the baskets is the volume in which honey can collect. A drum with a small volume has to be emptied often; if emptying is delayed, the honey touches the baskets.
3. Base and gate: A base sloping towards the gate and a wide-mouthed gate ensure complete emptying even with thick honey.
4. Body strength: Thin sheet metal vibrates during spinning and buckles over time. Reinforcing bands at the top and bottom edges are a good sign.
5. Ease of cleaning: The inside surface should have no sharp corners, exposed screws or dirt-trapping joints.
6. Leg height: A bucket with a strainer must fit under the gate; if it does not, the machine has to be raised on a sturdy stand.

How do you use the drum correctly?

• Securing: Place the drum on a level floor and fix the legs. With an unbalanced load the drum “walks” and can knock over the bucket under the gate.
• Honey level: Do not let the honey collecting at the bottom touch the baskets. If honey touches the basket, the spin is slowed, the honey foams and splashes back onto the frames.
• Emptying: Open the gate and run the honey straight into a bucket with a strainer. Watch the bucket filling while the gate is open; overflowing honey is lost and attracts robber bees.
• Lid: Keep the lid closed while working and during breaks; honey absorbs moisture from the air.
• Do not heat it: Heating the drum directly or pouring hot water on it warms the honey and lowers its quality. A warm extracting room is enough.

Cleaning and maintenance of the extractor drum

1. Collect the remaining honey: Remove the baskets and scrape the honey left on the wall and base towards the gate with a spatula.
2. Wash with lukewarm water: Hot water melts bits of wax and sticks them to the wall. If necessary, use a mild detergent and rinse with plenty of water. Wire brushes and abrasive sponges scratch stainless surfaces.
3. Take the gate apart: Wash the shutter and seal separately. Replace a seal that has hardened or cracked.
4. Dry: Dry the drum completely by leaving it upside down or with the gate open. Leftover water and honey cause mould, odours and staining at the welds.
5. Store: Store in a dry, dust-free place with the lid slightly ajar. Rinse once more at the start of the season before use.

Common mistakes

• Extracting honey in an old drum that is galvanised or has flaking paint.
• Buying a machine without checking the height available under the gate.
• Not emptying the honey collecting at the bottom in time.
• Trying to speed up the honey by “warming” the drum with hot water or a direct flame.
• Leaving the drum over winter damp and with honey residues.