Gloves protect the hands, but they are also the item that most often carries disease between hives.

The types

• Leather: Best protection, worst hygiene. Cannot be washed, absorbs propolis and smells
• Nitrile or latex, disposable: Hygienic, good feel, changed between hives. Less sting protection
• Coated cotton: Washable, reasonable feel
• No gloves: Best feel, most risk

The hygiene point

Leather gloves collect propolis, wax and — from an infected colony — spores. They cannot be cleaned.

American foulbrood spores remain viable for decades. A pair of leather gloves that has been through an infected hive carries that to the next one.

Disposable or washable types are more hygienic for this reason, and they are changed as soon as they are soiled.

Feel and stings

Thick gloves make fine work difficult. A beekeeper who cannot handle the queen properly or lets frames slip causes more disturbance — and a disturbed colony stings more.

Many experienced beekeepers use thin disposable gloves: enough protection against most stings while keeping the feel.

Alarm pheromone

A sting in the glove leaves pheromone that puts the colony on the defensive — and in leather it stays there.

That is a second reason to work with washable or disposable types.

Practical points

• The sleeve must close over the glove; the wrist is the commonest sting site
• Keep spare gloves with you; a torn glove otherwise ends the session
• Wash or replace as soon as they become sticky
• Clean the hive tool between hives too; glove and tool together carry the most

For beginners

Start with good protection. As confidence grows, working thinner becomes attractive by itself — but not the other way round.