Beekeeping Gloves

Beekeeping gloves are protective gloves, usually with long fabric gauntlets, that protect the hands and wrists from stings during hive inspections and honey harvesting. Choosing them means striking a balance between protection and finger sensitivity: thick gloves protect well but reduce feel, while thin gloves give sensitivity but do not fully stop stings. In terms of hygiene, gloves are also the item of clothing that has the most contact from hive to hive.

Why are beekeeping gloves used?

During an inspection the hands are constantly among the bees: holding frames, lifting boxes, touching comb. Even in calm colonies, a crushed bee or a sudden movement can bring a sting to the hand. Gloves reduce this risk and especially give confidence to the beginner beekeeper; a beekeeper who feels safe works more slowly and more smoothly.

The second job of gloves is to close off the wrist. The gap between the end of the jacket or suit sleeve and the hand is one of the most common places where bees get inside clothing. A long-cuffed glove goes over the sleeve and closes this gap.

What types of beekeeping gloves are there?

Leather beekeeping gloves

The most classic type. Usually made of thin goat or sheep leather and sewn to an elasticated or ventilated fabric gauntlet reaching to the elbow. They offer high protection; if the thin leather is well made, they also give reasonable sensitivity. Their weakness is cleaning: leather hardens as it is washed, and propolis, honey and sting residues build up on it. Stings left in the leather carry the alarm odour and draw bees to that spot in later inspections.

Thick rubber gloves

Long rubber and PVC gloves of the washing-up or work-glove type are also used in beekeeping. They protect well against stings and can be washed and disinfected. On the other hand, the inside gets sweaty, and the slippery surface can make it harder to grip a heavy frame.

Thin nitrile and latex gloves

Disposable nitrile gloves have become common for jobs that need delicate work: finding the queen, checking for eggs, grafting larvae in queen rearing, disease inspection. The finger feel is almost like a bare hand, and a new pair can be put on for each hive or apiary. However, a sting can go through a thin glove; on their own they are not enough with defensive colonies. People with a latex allergy should choose nitrile.

Fabric and knitted gloves

The pores of ordinary garden or knitted gloves let the sting through. Coated work gloves (nitrile- or latex-coated) give better protection; still, unless a long gauntlet is added, they leave the wrist exposed.

Choosing gloves: protection or sensitivity?

When choosing, look at the following:

• Size: Loose gloves leave empty space at the fingertips, make it harder to grip frames and lead to crushed bees; tight gloves stretch the material and let the sting through.
• Gauntlet length: It should be long enough to go comfortably over the jacket sleeve, with an elasticated end.
• Seams: The seams between the fingers should be strong and tight; a split seam is where a bee gets in.
• Climate: In hot regions, ventilated gauntlets and thin leather increase comfort.
• Colony temperament: Thick gloves for defensive colonies; thin gloves are usually enough for calm colonies. Wearing another layer over thin nitrile is also a solution.

How do you use beekeeping gloves?

1. Put them on in the right order: First the jacket or suit, then the veil, and gloves last. The gauntlet is pulled over the sleeve; if it is tucked inside the sleeve, bees will walk down the arm.
2. Move slowly: Gloves reduce the feel in your hands; when gripping a frame, place your fingers on the frame lugs so as not to press on bees.
3. Clear away stings: Scrape stings stuck in the glove off with the hive tool or mask the smell with smoke; the smell of stings attracts new stings.
4. Change them between apiaries: Wash washable gloves in soda water between apiaries and throw away disposable gloves.

How do you clean and store beekeeping gloves?

• Leather gloves: Scrape off propolis before it hardens; wipe gently with warm soapy water and dry in the shade. If they stiffen, they can be softened with a leather care product, but do not use scented products. Replacing leather gloves that are very dirty or stiff with propolis is the cleanest solution.
• Rubber and PVC gloves: Scrub with hot water and washing soda; turn them inside out to dry.
• Fabric gauntlets: Washable; wash them regularly with your clothing to get rid of the alarm odour.
• Storage: In a dry, cool, dark place; gloves with honey residues attract ants, mice and moths.

Is beekeeping without gloves right?

Some experienced beekeepers work without gloves with calm colonies. Their reasoning is that bare hands crush fewer bees and movements are gentler. This choice is personal; however, gloves are needed with defensive colonies, during honey harvest, in bad weather and for jobs such as moving hives. Beginners are advised to start with gloves and move to thin gloves as their movements become more assured. For people allergic to bee venom, gloves are as important as the veil.

Common mistakes with gloves

• Tucking the gauntlet inside the sleeve: Bees go down the inside of the sleeve to the wrist.
• Working with worn gloves: A small hole at the fingertip means a sting.
• Using the same leather gloves for years without cleaning: They carry both odour and disease.
• Holding frames in loose gloves: Grip weakens, frames get dropped, bees get crushed.