Feeders

A feeder as a hive part is a feeding component made to the same dimensions as the hive body and fitted between the boxes of the hive, on top of it or inside it: the top feeder box, the frame feeder, the feeding eke and, on some hives, a feeder compartment built into the body. This page explains which part of the hive a feeder fits into and how, dimensional compatibility, and mistakes made when fitting.

Where does a feeder go on the hive?

From bottom to top, a hive consists of these parts: floor, brood box, queen excluder and supers if needed, crown board and roof. Depending on its purpose, a feeder joins this stack at one of three points:

• Inside the brood box: A frame (division board) feeder is placed in the brood box in place of a frame.
• Above the brood box: A top feeder box or feeding eke sits between the uppermost body and the roof. There are types that replace the crown board and types that sit on top of it.
• At the entrance: An entrance feeder is fitted to the entrance in the floor. Because it takes the feed outside the hive, it is the position with the highest risk of robbing.

Whatever the position, the rule is the same: the feed must be close to the cluster and inside the hive, and fitting the feeder must not compromise the hive's air- and bee-tightness.

How is a top feeder box fitted?

A top feeder box is a shallow box made to the outer dimensions of the hive body. Inside it has a syrup reservoir and an access slot or chimney through which the bees come up. It is fitted correctly as follows:

1. Remove the crown board, or leave the crown board hole open, depending on the type of feeder. Some feeders replace the crown board, others sit on top of it.
2. Seat the feeder squarely on top of the body, with the edges aligned. If a gap is left, robber bees and wasps get in through it.
3. Fit the cover of the access slot: The bees should reach the feed only via the slot or chimney and must not spread into the syrup reservoir.
4. Close the roof over the feeder and secure it against the wind.
5. When refilling, lift only the roof; there is no need to open the hive.

It is essential that the top feeder has the same outer dimensions as the hive. A Dadant-size feeder on a Langstroth hive, or vice versa, either leaves a gap or does not fit at all. Do not buy a feeder without knowing your hive type; if you make one yourself, take the measurements from your existing hive body.

How is a frame feeder placed in the brood box?

A frame feeder hangs by lugs in the same way as a frame and takes the place of one frame. It is usually placed in the position of an outer frame, next to the brood area. Points to watch for this part to fit the hive:

• Lug and length dimensions: The feeder must sit fully in the hive's frame rebate, and its bottom must not touch the floor.
• Bee space: A normal bee space must remain between the feeder and the neighbouring frame. Too narrow a gap crushes bees; too wide a gap leads to irregular comb.
• Climbing surface: The inside surface should be rough or have a grid; a float or mesh should be added.
• Cover: In open-topped frame feeders, bees can fall into the syrup from anywhere. Types with a closed top and only a narrow access section reduce drowning.

Built-in (integrated) feeders

In some expanded polystyrene hives and nuc boxes, the feeder is made as part of the body or the lid. When the lid is lifted, the feeder compartment is filled directly. It is practical and needs no extra parts; however, when this compartment is left empty, the bees build comb in it and it becomes hard to clean.

What is a feeding eke and what is it for?

A feeding eke (spacer rim) is a frame the size of the hive body but only a few centimetres high. It creates a space between the top bars and the roof or crown board. In this space you can put:

• fondant in midwinter,
• pollen patties in spring,
• syrup in a plastic bag, or a small inverted jar.

The eke should be just high enough for the feed to fit; an eke that is too high leaves a cold air space above the cluster in winter. For larger containers, an empty brood box or super can be used as a temporary eke.

Feeders for special hive types

In Warré hives, horizontal (top-bar) hives and local hive types, standard feeders often do not fit. For these hives the feeder is made to the hive's own body dimensions. In horizontal hives, reservoirs placed behind a follower board are used, on the same principle as a frame feeder. Whatever the hive, the rules on dimensional fit, bee space and tightness are the same.

If you are making a feeder yourself

• Take the measurements from the hive: The outer dimensions must be exactly the same as the body, and the corners must be square.
• Tightness: The syrup reservoir of a wooden feeder is made leak-proof with a food-grade coating or a food-grade liner. Leaking syrup runs down to the hive floor and causes robbing and mould.
• Access route: The slot or chimney through which the bees come up must end above the syrup level; otherwise syrup flows into the hive.
• Climbing surface: The part of the access route that goes down to the syrup should be rough or covered with mesh.
• Bee-proof cover: The filling section should be closed off so that bees cannot reach it; that way you do not meet bees when refilling.

Common mistakes when fitting

• A feeder that does not fit: A gap left at the edge becomes a second entrance for robber bees and wasps.
• Forgetting the access cover: The bees fill the syrup reservoir and drown.
• Going into winter with a top feeder on: An empty top feeder leaves a cold volume above the cluster; when feeding is finished, remove the feeder and put the crown board back.
• Fitting a feeder together with a honey super: The bees carry the syrup into the super, and the product is no longer honey.
• A leaking wooden feeder: Syrup that collects on the floor ferments and attracts pests.