Honey Presses

A honey extracting machine in everyday usage mostly means the centrifugal honey extractor, which spins uncapped frames of comb and throws the honey out by centrifugal force; comb presses, which crush the comb to squeeze the honey out, are also referred to under this name. A centrifugal machine leaves the comb intact, while a press destroys it. On this page you will find the difference between the two methods, the types of machine and how to choose the right one.

What does a honey extracting machine do?

Ripe honey sits in the hexagonal wax cells built by the bees, sealed with cappings. There are two ways to get the honey out of the cells:

• Centrifugal: The uncapped frame is spun inside a drum; the honey is flung out of the cells and runs down the drum wall. The comb is left empty but intact.
• Pressing (squeezing): The comb is cut from the frame, crushed and squeezed in a press. The honey drains off and the wax remains; the comb cannot be reused.

Today almost all beekeepers working with framed hives use a centrifugal extractor. The reason is simple: bees use a great deal of nectar and energy to produce wax and build comb. Every comb that goes back intact is work the bees can turn directly into honey the next season.

What types of centrifugal honey extractor are there?

Tangential extractor

The frames are placed in wire baskets parallel to the drum wall, with the comb face facing outwards. Only the outward-facing side is emptied at a time; then the frame is turned around. It is simple in design, low in price and small in size. The most common small models take two to four frames.

Tangential extractor with reversible baskets

The baskets pivot on a hinge, so the other side can be turned outwards without taking the frame out by hand. On some motorised models the baskets reverse automatically when the direction of rotation changes. It combines the clean extraction of a tangential machine with less manual work.

Radial extractor

The frames are arranged from the centre outwards, like the spokes of a wheel. Both sides empty at the same time, so no turning is needed. Capacity is generally higher; it is preferred by medium and large operations. In a radial extractor the frames are usually loaded with the top bar facing the drum wall; the natural slight upward tilt of the cells helps the honey flow outwards. Follow the loading direction given in the machine's manual.

Horizontal-axis and large line extractors

In commercial operations, large machines that take dozens of frames, some spinning on a horizontal axis, work as a line together with automatic uncapping and a honey pump. This investment only makes sense in an operation with hundreds of hives.

Hand-cranked or motorised?

• Hand-cranked: Cheap, runs without electricity, rarely breaks down. Speed is entirely up to the user; if it is not turned carefully, fresh comb breaks. It can be enough for anything from a few to ten or fifteen hives.
• Motorised with speed control: A soft start and gradual acceleration protect the comb and spare the beekeeper. Models with a timer and programmes make the work repeatable.
• When choosing a motor: The motor and gearbox must not be where honey can drip on them, and oil and dirt must not reach the honey. The electrical parts should be protected against splashing water.

Honey press: squeezing in the true sense

A comb press squeezes crushed comb inside a perforated cylinder or cloth bag using a screw or lever mechanism. It makes sense in these cases:

• Frameless hives: Loose combs from top-bar or traditional hives cannot go into a centrifuge.
• Heather honey: Honeys such as Calluna vulgaris honey, which are jelly-like (thixotropic), are hard to extract by centrifuge. The honey in the cells is first stirred with a needle loosener, or the comb is pressed.
• Broken, old or culled combs: Honey in comb that is going to be melted down anyway is recovered with a press.

Pressed honey contains more wax and pollen and must be carefully strained and settled. A press is also equipment that comes into contact with honey: stainless steel or food-grade material is essential.

What should you look for when choosing a honey extractor?

1. Material: Every part that touches honey, including the drum, baskets and honey gate, must be stainless steel or food-grade plastic. A galvanised or painted interior is not acceptable.
2. Frame fit: The baskets must take the frame size you use (Langstroth, Dadant or local sizes; super or brood frames).
3. Capacity: The number of frames per run determines how long harvest day takes. If your number of hives is going to grow, consider the next size up.
4. Space below the baskets: There must be enough space below the baskets for honey to collect; otherwise it has to be drained frequently.
5. Honey gate: A wide-mouthed honey gate that is easy to remove and clean; legs high enough for a bucket to fit underneath.
6. Stability and anchoring: Sturdy legs, the option of fixing it to the floor, a lid and a safety lock.
7. Ease of cleaning: A design without sharp corners and with removable baskets.

Common mistakes in use and maintenance

• Starting too fast: A full comb is heavy in the first turns; sudden speed presses it against the basket wire and breaks it.
• Unbalanced load: Opposite frames should be of similar weight; if the machine wobbles, stop and rebalance it.
• Cold honey: In a cold room honey flows poorly and strains the comb. Supers can be left in a warm room before extracting.
• Overfilling the drum: If the honey collecting at the bottom reaches the baskets, the machine is braked and the honey foams.
• Storing it dirty: The machine is not put away until it has been washed with warm water and dried completely. Leftover honey goes mouldy and becomes a source of contamination at the next harvest.

For detailed operating steps of the machine, see the “Honey extractors” page; for the tank and honey gate, see the “Honey extractor tank” page.