Uncapping Trays

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An uncapping tray (uncapping tank, uncapping tub) is a container that collects the wax cappings cut from the comb cells before extraction, holds the frame while it is uncapped, and separates the honey from the cappings with a strainer compartment. Because it comes into contact with honey, it must be made of stainless steel or food-grade plastic. This page covers the parts of the tray, its types, how to choose one, recovering honey and wax from cappings, and cleaning.

What is an uncapping tray used for?

The mouths of cells of ripe honey are sealed with a thin wax cover built by the bees, the capping. Before extraction, these cappings are removed with a knife or uncapping fork. The cut cappings are full of honey and sticky; working without a tray is messy and loses honey. The uncapping tray has three jobs:

  • Holding the frame: The frame rests on a bar or pin across the top of the tray, leaving both of the beekeeper's hands free.
  • Collecting the cappings: The cut cappings fall straight into the tray.
  • Separating the honey: The strainer compartment holds the cappings, while the honey that drains off collects in the compartment below and is drawn off through a honey gate.
Capped honey frames on the frame rack above an uncapping tray
Frames waiting to be uncapped on the rack above the tray; cut cappings are piling up below. Photo: conall.. / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 2.0

Parts of an uncapping tray

  • Outer body: The tank where the honey collects, with a gate at the bottom.
  • Strainer basket or grid: A perforated stainless steel basket or wire grid that sits inside the body. The cappings stay here and the honey drains below.
  • Frame rest bar: A bar across the top of the tray with a pointed pin on which the frame lug sits. The frame is turned on this pin so that both sides can be uncapped in turn.
  • Frame rack: Rails on which uncapped or waiting frames are hung; dripping honey falls into the tray.
  • Honey gate and lid: The honey is drawn off at the bottom; the lid keeps out bees, dust and moisture during breaks.
Plastic uncapping tray with a metal frame rest
A simple uncapping tray with a plastic body, a metal frame rest and a grid. Photo: AxelHH / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 3.0
Perforated stainless steel inner basket of an uncapping tray
The tray's perforated stainless steel inner basket: the cappings stay in the basket and the honey drains through the holes into the tank below. Photo: R. Henrik Nilsson / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 4.0

Where does the tray go in the extracting room?

In the workflow, the uncapping tray sits between the full supers and the extractor. The most efficient layout has the full supers on one side of the tray and the extractor on the other: the frame is taken from the super, uncapped over the tray, waits on the rack and goes into the machine. This way uncapped frames do not travel around the room dripping honey. Spreading an easy-to-wipe sheet under the tray makes it easier to collect honey that drips on the floor.

Types of uncapping tray

TypeFeaturesSuitable scale
Simple plastic traySingle tank with a grid and frame rest; sometimes without a honey gateHobby, a few hives
Double tray with strainerInner basket and lower tank; with honey gate and lidSmall and medium operation
Long stainless steel trayLong body with frame rack, where several people can work at onceMedium and large operation
Heated tray and cappings melterMelts cappings with warm water or a heater in the base, separating wax from honeyLarge volumes
Line-type traySits under an automatic uncapping machine; cappings are carried by an auger or pump to a cappings spinnerCommercial operation
Uncapping tray with a lid and a honey gate
An uncapping tray with a plastic outer body, a stainless steel inner basket, a lid and a honey gate. Photo: R. Henrik Nilsson / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 4.0

What should you look for when choosing an uncapping tray?

  1. Material: Stainless steel or food-grade plastic. Galvanised or painted trays are not used.
  2. Frame fit: The tray and rest bar must comfortably take the longest frame you use.
  3. Straining surface: A wide, deep basket drains the cappings better.
  4. Lower tank and honey gate: The gate should be wide-mouthed and removable; the tank should hold a day's harvest of honey.
  5. Working height: To prevent back pain on long harvest days, it should be possible to put the tray on a stand close to waist height.
  6. Cleaning: The basket and gate should come apart easily, and there should be no dirt-trapping corners inside.

How do you recover honey and wax from cappings?

Cappings are not harvest “waste” but a valuable by-product. They contain a considerable amount of honey, and they are themselves the cleanest, lightest-coloured wax in the apiary.

  • Leaving them to drain: The cappings are left in the tray basket for a day or two in a warm, bee-proof room, and the honey drains below. This is the simplest method and the one that best preserves quality.
  • Cappings spinner: In large operations the cappings are spun in a perforated drum to separate them from their honey.
  • Cappings press: The cappings are squeezed in a bag or perforated cylinder.
  • Cappings melter: The wax is melted by heat and the honey and wax separate. It is fast, but honey obtained this way has been heated; its colour darkens and its HMF value rises. Do not mix this honey into a table honey batch.

Cappings whose honey has drained off are melted and strained without mixing them with old comb wax. This wax is ideal for having your own foundation made.

Cappings and honey drained from cappings are not left open in the apiary; they start robbing. If you want to give the cappings to the bees to clean, do so only in your own apiary, in the evening, and inside the hives.

Cleaning and maintenance

  1. Empty out the cappings and honey; put the wax from the basket into a separate container.
  2. Wash the tray in warm water. Hot water melts the wax and sticks it into the holes of the basket.
  3. Take off the honey gate and wash it separately with its seal.
  4. If you used detergent, rinse with plenty of water and dry every part completely.
  5. Store in a dry, dust-free place with the lid slightly open.

Common mistakes

  • Using a galvanised bucket or painted crate as an uncapping tray.
  • Leaving cappings to drain too briefly and losing the honey in them.
  • Mixing honey from a cappings melter with table honey.
  • Melting cappings wax together with old, dark comb wax.
  • Leaving the tray and cappings outside the extracting room, open to bees.

Frequently asked questions

Can you uncap without an uncapping tray?

You can also uncap with a wooden bar laid across a clean container, but separating the honey from the cappings is harder and more honey is lost.

Can the honey in cappings be used?

Yes. Cappings honey that drains off by its own weight is clean and can be added to the batch. Honey separated by heat, however, should be kept apart.

Should an uncapping tray be stainless steel or plastic?

Either can be used if it is food-grade. Stainless steel is more durable; plastic is light and cheap.

Why is cappings wax valuable?

Because it consists only of cappings built that year, it is light in colour and clean; it contains no brood cocoons or old residues.

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