Feeders

A feeder (bee feeder) is a container or device that delivers syrup, candy or pollen patties to bees inside the hive. The right feeder lets the bees take food without drowning, avoids triggering robbing, and keeps the colony from being disturbed unnecessarily. This page describes the types of feeder, which one to choose in which situation, and how to use them correctly.

What does a feeder do?

Once the decision to feed has been made, the real question is how to get the food to the bees. A good feeder does three things at once: it brings the food within reach of the cluster, it does not let the smell of the food escape from the hive, and it prevents bees from drowning in it.

The choice of feeder depends on the purpose of feeding. In autumn a large-capacity feeder is needed to give a large amount of thick syrup in a short time; in spring, small and frequent fills are enough for stimulative feeding with thin syrup; and in winter, since candy is given instead of liquid feed, what matters is not the feeder but the space above the cluster. When to give which feed is explained in detail on the Feeding: Syrup, Candy and Pollen page.

What types of bee feeder are there?

Top feeder (tray feeder)

A top feeder is a shallow box made to the same dimensions as the hive body, placed instead of or on top of the inner cover. The bees reach the food through a slot or a central chimney; because the slot is covered, the bees do not spread into the syrup reservoir. Its biggest advantages are that it can be filled without opening the hive and that it holds a large amount of syrup. It is the most practical tool for autumn feeding.

In some top feeders, access is through a cone-shaped chimney in the middle. The bees climb up the chimney and reach the syrup under the cone; the cone cover prevents the bees from spreading into the reservoir.

Frame feeder (division board feeder)

A frame feeder is a narrow, deep reservoir placed inside the brood box in place of a frame. Because the food stays entirely inside the hive, it is the type with the lowest risk of robbing. On the other hand, it takes up the space of a frame, and the lid has to be opened to fill it. It must have a climbing surface inside (a rough inner surface, a mesh ladder, a floating board); otherwise many bees will drown.

Inverted container feeder (jar, bucket)

A jar or bucket with a few small holes punched in the lid is filled with syrup and turned upside down. Because air cannot get in, the syrup does not spill; the bees take it by sucking through the holes. It is placed over the hole in the inner cover or inside an empty box on top of the bars. It is cheap, clean and easy to monitor, and it does not overflow outside the hive.

Round and channelled feeders

Round feeders, where the bees come up in the middle and the syrup sits in narrow channels, and grooved wooden feeders are used for small volumes. The narrow channels reduce the number of bees falling into the syrup and drowning. They are useful for stimulative feeding and small colonies.

Plastic bag feeder

A bag filled with syrup and tightly sealed is laid directly on top of the bars, and its upper surface is lightly pierced in a few places with a pin or knife tip. The bees take the syrup through the holes. It costs almost nothing; however, a feeding rim (eke) is needed to leave space between the bag and the lid, and you must remember to collect the empty bags.

Entrance feeder

It consists of a base piece fitted into the entrance and a jar sitting upside down on it. It is easy to fill and does not require opening the hive. However, because the food sits at the mouth of the hive, the smell of syrup spreads outside; it is the type that most often triggers robbing. It should not be used during dearths, with weak colonies, or where there is wasp or hornet pressure. In cold weather the bees cannot leave the cluster to reach this feeder.

Which feeder should I choose?

When choosing, ask yourself these questions:

• How much feed will I give? A top feeder for large-volume autumn feeding; a jar or frame feeder for stimulative feeding of a few litres.
• How strong is the colony? A weak colony cannot defend or process a large mass of syrup; choose a small feeder.
• What is my hive type? Top and frame feeders must fit the hive dimensions (Langstroth, Dadant, etc.). An ill-fitting feeder disrupts the bee space.
• What season is it? In the cold, candy is given instead of liquid feed; candy needs not a feeder but space directly above the cluster.

What material should a feeder be made of?

• Food-grade plastic: Light, easy to clean and rot-proof. It should be odourless and suitable for contact with food.
• Wood: Bee-friendly, but since it absorbs syrup its inner surface must be sealed with a food-safe coating. A leaking wooden feeder attracts robbers.
• Metal: Only stainless steel is suitable. Syrup sours and becomes acidic over time; galvanised or painted sheet metal can corrode and metal residues can pass into the feed.
• Climbing surface: A rough inner surface, wire mesh or a floating board/net is essential. In feeders with slippery plastic surfaces, drowning losses can be very high.

How to use a feeder: step by step

1. Reduce the entrance: Especially with weak colonies, the entrance is reduced before feeding starts.
2. Fill in the late afternoon: Feed given after flying has died down attracts less attention from robber bees.
3. Fill without spilling: Pour the syrup slowly into the feeder from a funnel or bucket; wipe up any syrup dripping on top of or in front of the hive immediately.
4. Feed all colonies at the same time: Feeding just one hive can lead neighbouring hives to attack it.
5. Monitor consumption: How many days the feed lasts tells you about the colony's strength and needs. Feed that is not touched at all may show that the feeder is too far from the cluster or that there is forage in the field.
6. When feeding is over, empty and remove the feeder: Bees build irregular comb in an empty feeder compartment.

Do candy and pollen patties need a feeder?

Solid feeds do not need a separate feeder. Candy (fondant) and pollen patties are placed directly on top of the bars or over the hole in the inner cover, with the underside of the packaging opened. What matters is that the feed is directly above the cluster and that there is a space of a few centimetres (a feeding rim) between the lid and the bars. Details are on the Feeding Candy and Feeding Pollen pages.

Feeder maintenance and hygiene

• Do not leave leftover syrup standing: Syrup can ferment within a few days; throw away feed that is sour, frothy or mouldy.
• Wash after every use: Clean with hot water and a brush and dry thoroughly. If you used detergent, rinse with plenty of water.
• Do not move feeders between hives without cleaning them: In particular, do not put a feeder from a colony suspected of disease or one that has died into another hive without cleaning it.
• Store dry and covered: Feeders kept in storage over winter should be protected from mice, ants and wax moth.
• Check for leaks: A cracked feeder drips syrup onto the hive floor, causing both robbing and moisture problems.

Common mistakes

• Using a feeder without a climbing surface: Hundreds of bees can drown in one night.
• Giving a large feeder to a weak colony: The colony cannot defend the feed, the syrup sours and robbing begins.
• Using an entrance feeder during a dearth: This is one of the situations in which robbing starts fastest.
• Giving syrup in the cold: Bees cannot leave the cluster to go up to the feeder; give candy in cold weather.
• Forgetting the feeder in the hive for months: It creates conditions for irregular comb, mould and pests.