Frame Wire and Wiring

Wiring frames means stretching thin stainless wire between the side bars of a hive frame and embedding that wire in the foundation; the aim is to keep the foundation flat and taut, and to strengthen the finished comb for extraction, transport and hot weather. The right wire, the right wiring pattern and good tension are the basis of flat, long-lasting comb. On this page we cover choosing wire, wiring patterns, and wiring and embedding step by step.

What is frame wiring and why is it needed?

Beeswax is a soft material. At the temperature inside a hive, a sheet of foundation carrying thousands of bees and kilograms of honey will sag, buckle or come away from the frame if left unsupported. The wire gives the comb a “skeleton”.

• Keeps the foundation flat: A loose or unsupported sheet is drawn crooked, and crooked comb puts an end to swapping frames.
• Protects the comb during extraction: A comb full of honey can break under the centrifugal force of the extractor. Wired comb stands up to this force much better.
• Makes combs sturdy for transport: In migratory beekeeping, resistance to jolting is increased.
• Prevents collapse in the heat: In summer heat, the risk of collapse is reduced, especially in newly drawn combs full of honey.

How do you choose frame wire?

• Material: Stainless steel wire is the best choice; because it is in constant contact with honey and moisture, it must not rust. Galvanised wire is also used, though its coating can be damaged over time. Iron wire that can rust is not used.
• Gauge: Wire of about 0.4–0.5 mm diameter is generally used. Wire that is too thin snaps and cuts the wax; wire that is too thick is hard to tension and weakens the sheet when embedded.
• Flexibility: Choose wire that bends easily but does not stretch when tensioned.
• Reel: The wire is drawn off a reel holder that can turn, so that it does not tangle.

What wiring patterns are there?

The path the wire follows inside the frame varies with the frame type, its depth and the beekeeper's habits. What matters is that every part of the sheet is supported and the wire stays taut.

The number of rows is chosen according to the frame depth: generally 3–4 horizontal rows are enough for deep brood frames and 2–3 for shallow honey frames. The rows should be spaced evenly over the height of the frame.

How do you wire a frame step by step?

1. Check the holes: Make sure the holes in the side bars are at the same height on both sides. In soft wood, fitting metal eyelets in the holes stops the wire cutting into the wood.
2. Secure the first end: Wrap the end of the wire a few times around a small nail driven into the outer face of the side bar, then drive the nail fully home.
3. Thread the wire: Pass the wire through the holes in turn, zigzagging back and forth; do not leave kinks or knots between the rows.
4. Tension it: Use a wiring board or clamp that squeezes the side bars slightly inwards, then pull the wire tight row by row. When the clamp is released, the side bars spring back into place and tension the wire.
5. Secure the other end: Fix the second end by wrapping it around a nail in the same way and cut off the excess.
6. Test the tension: The wire should ring when you pluck it with a finger and offer clear resistance when you press it. If necessary, increase the tension by putting small crimps in the wire with a wire crimper.

How is the wire embedded in the foundation?

Once the wire has been tensioned, the foundation is placed in the frame and the wire is embedded in the wax. If the wire merely touches the sheet, it gives no support; over time the bees expose the wire or the sheet comes away from it.

• Use an embedding board: Work on a flat board sized to the inside of the frame that fully supports the underside of the sheet.
• Electric embedding: A low-voltage transformer, briefly connected to the two ends of the wire, heats it; the wire melts the wax and sinks into it. This gives fast, neat results.
• Spur embedder: A toothed wheel rolled along the wire; it is used heated or cold. It is cheap and simple but takes more effort.
• Get the heat right: Wire that gets too hot cuts through the sheet and opens up slits. The wire should sit in the middle of the wax and not come through to the other side of the sheet.

Common mistakes when wiring

• Slack wire: The most common mistake. Slack wire does not carry the sheet, and the comb buckles.
• Not embedding the wire: If the sheet is not joined to the wire, it sags or comes away from it.
• Overheating: Passing current for too long during electric embedding cuts through the sheet.
• Not using eyelets: In soft wood, taut wire gradually enlarges the hole and the wire goes slack.
• Rusting wire: Rust passes into the honey and wax, and the wire thins and snaps.
• Rows not evenly spaced: The sheet buckles in the unsupported lower area.

What are the alternatives to wiring?

• Plastic foundation and plastic frames: No wiring needed; how well the bees accept them depends on the quality of the wax coating.
• Support pins: Some beekeepers support the sheet with metal pins fitted into the side bars; this is usually weaker than horizontal wire.
• Comb honey frames: For comb honey to be cut and sold, thin foundation is used without wire; these combs are not extracted.
• Foundationless frames: The bees are given only a starter strip; the comb is more fragile and needs care in the extractor.