Frame Drilling Equipment

Frame drilling equipment covers tools such as drills, drilling jigs, multi-spindle drilling benches and hole punches used to make neatly aligned, evenly spaced holes in the side bars of hive frames (and in the top and bottom bars for vertical wiring) through which the frame wire passes. These holes are not for ventilation or for bees to pass through, but for wire only; drilling them in the right place and at the right diameter is a precondition for taut wiring. On this page we describe the types of equipment, how to position the holes and the most common mistakes.

Why are holes drilled in hive frames?

Frame wire is stretched between the side bars to keep the foundation flat and taut. The wire passes through the side bars via small wire holes drilled for the purpose. The holes play no part in air flow inside the hive or in the movement of bees; explanations of this kind found in some sources are wrong. Bees move about through the gaps between frames and below the frame.

Many manufacturers sell side bars pre-drilled. However, a beekeeper who buys undrilled bars, makes their own frames or wants to use a different wiring pattern has to drill the holes.

What equipment is used to drill frames?

Hand drill and fine drill bit

This is enough for a small number of frames. A sharp, fine, brad-point bit for wood is used. It is hard to keep holes aligned drilling freehand, so you should at least mark the bar or work with a simple jig.

Drilling jig (guide)

A wooden or metal piece that sits on the side bar, with metal guide bushes at the hole positions. Because the bit passes through the bush, the holes are drilled in the same place and square on every bar. Several side bars can be clamped side by side and drilled together with the jig.

Pillar drill and multi-spindle drilling bench

A pillar (bench) drill ensures that the holes are drilled exactly square to the bar. Commercial operations use multi-spindle benches that drill all the holes in a side bar in one go; with a fence and a stop, these benches bring every bar into the same position.

Hole punch and eyelet tool

For thin side bars there are plier-type tools that punch the hole instead of drilling it. Some models also fit a metal eyelet into the hole at the same time. The eyelet stops the taut wire cutting into soft wood.

Where and how should the holes be drilled?

• On the centre line of the bar: The holes are drilled exactly in the middle of the width of the side bar, so that the wire stays in the plane of the foundation.
• At the same height on both side bars: If opposite holes are not in line, the wire runs at a slant and the foundation buckles.
• Evenly spaced: The rows of wire should be evenly spread over the height of the frame. Generally 3–4 rows of holes are drilled in a deep frame and 2–3 in a shallow frame.
• Away from the ends: A hole too close to the joint with the top or bottom bar causes the bar to split and a nail to end up in the hole.
• The right diameter: If no eyelet is to be fitted, the hole is kept just large enough for the wire to pass easily. If an eyelet is to be fitted, the diameter is chosen so that the eyelet body fits tightly. A hole larger than necessary weakens the bar.

How do you drill a frame step by step?

1. Drill before assembly: Drilling the side bars before the frame is put together is both easier and more accurate.
2. Make a sample bar: Measure and mark the hole positions and use this bar as a template.
3. Bundle the bars: Clamp side bars of the same length together with their ends aligned.
4. Drill square: Drill with a jig or pillar drill, holding the drill square to the bar. Put a scrap board underneath so the back of the bottom bar does not splinter.
5. Remove the burrs: Splinters at the mouth of the hole scratch the wire and spoil the tension.
6. Check: After assembly, thread a wire through to test that the holes in the two side bars line up.

What should you look for when choosing drilling equipment?

• Number of frames: A hand drill and jig are enough for a few dozen frames; for hundreds of frames a pillar drill or multi-spindle bench is worth considering.
• Frame type: The jig must suit the length of your side bars and the number of holes.
• Use of eyelets: If you fit eyelets, models that combine a hole punch and an eyelet tool speed up the job.
• A durable guide: The holes in wooden jigs widen over time; jigs with metal bushes last a long time.

Safety and maintenance

• Use a sharp drill bit; a blunt bit burns the wood, raises splinters and can split the bar.
• Wear safety goggles, and hold the bars with a clamp, not by hand.
• Clear away shavings and dust regularly; wood dust should not be breathed in.
• Store jigs and punches in a dry place, lightly oiled against rust; take care that the oil does not get onto the frames.

Common mistakes

• Aligning holes by hand and eye; opposite holes end up out of line.
• Drilling too large a hole, weakening the bar or letting the wire move about in the hole.
• Drilling too close to the ends of the bar and causing it to split.
• Not removing burrs; the wire gets scratched and the tension is spoiled.
• Pulling wire very tight in soft wood without using eyelets.