Frame Wire Eyelets

Metal eyelets (frame eyelets, wire eyelets) are small metal rings fitted into the wire holes in the side bars of a hive frame; they stop the taut frame wire from cutting into the soft wood, enlarging the hole and gradually going slack. Although small and cheap, they noticeably increase the life of the frame and the quality of the wiring. On this page you will find what eyelets do, the types available, how they are fitted and the most common mistakes.

What is a frame eyelet and what does it do?

To keep the foundation flat, frame wire is threaded through small holes in the side bars and pulled tight. The wire is thin and hard, while frame wood is mostly soft pine. Under tension, the wire presses on the edge of the hole and over time cuts into the wood, opening a slit. As the hole grows, the wire goes slack and the foundation sags.

An eyelet is a small metal tube that sits inside the hole and is fixed in place by crimping its mouth. The wire now bears not on the wood but on a smooth metal ring. As a result:

• The wire does not cut the wood: The edge of the hole is protected for years.
• The tension lasts: Because the hole does not widen, the wire does not go slack.
• Rewiring is easier: When the old comb is removed and the frame is rewired, the holes are still sound.
• Security in the extractor: Wire that stays taut supports a comb full of honey better in the extractor.

An important correction: some texts state that eyelets are holes made for bees to pass through or for air to circulate in the hive; this is not true. An eyelet is simply a part that reinforces the wire hole.

What types of eyelet are there?

• Brass eyelets: The most common type; they do not rust and are easy to form.
• Other corrosion-resistant metals: Coated or stainless metal eyelets are also available. An eyelet that rusts in the damp hive environment contaminates both the wire and the honey, so a rust-proof material should be chosen.
• Plastic inserts: Some frames use plastic protectors instead of metal; they are less common than metal eyelets.

Two measurements matter when choosing a size: the body diameter of the eyelet must match the diameter of the hole to be drilled, and the body length must match the thickness of the side bar. A short eyelet does not fully protect the hole, while a long one sticks out on the other side of the bar.

How are eyelets fitted?

A simple eyelet punch or a plier-type eyelet tool is used to fit eyelets. Some tools make the hole and fit the eyelet in one operation.

1. Prepare the holes: The diameter of the holes in the side bar should be such that the eyelet body fits tightly.
2. Insert the eyelet: Push the eyelet fully into the hole; the eyelet body should line the hole through the whole thickness of the side bar.
3. Fix it: Seat it by flaring its mouth with the punch or with a light tap. The eyelet should not turn or slide out.
4. Check: Check that the wire passes easily through the eyelet and that there is no burr left on its edge.
5. Wire: Then wire and tension the frame as usual (see the “Frame Wire and Frame Wiring” page).

Does every frame need eyelets?

They are not essential, but they are recommended in many situations.

What should you look for when buying eyelets?

• Material: Stainless or corrosion-resistant metal.
• Size match: The body diameter and length should suit the thickness of your side bars and the hole diameter.
• Smooth edges: The inner mouth should be smooth; a sharp edge scratches the wire.
• Matching tool: Choose a punch or pliers that suit the size of eyelet you buy.

Common mistakes with eyelets

• Drilling the hole too large: the eyelet wobbles, turns or falls out.
• Not seating the eyelet fully: the wire still rubs against the wood at the edge of the eyelet.
• Using eyelets that rust: rust gets onto the wire and into the honey.
• Trying to fit eyelets into old, split holes: a split bar must first be repaired or replaced.