Care of Queen Cells

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Queen cell care means protecting the cells from grafting until the queen emerges: keeping them at the right temperature, free from jolts, and distributing them on time. Mistakes made in this period (chilling, knocks, late distribution) cannot be put right later; either the cell dies or the queen emerges with deformed wings or legs and lays poorly. Below, the critical days, transport, protective cages, incubators, distribution and quality culling are explained step by step.

How does development progress in the queen cell?

Counting the grafting day as zero, the larva is fed plenty of jelly for about 4–5 days, and the cell is capped on about day 5. After capping, the larva spins a cocoon, stretches out and turns into a pupa; the queen emerges on about day 11–12. The care schedule is built around these stages:

After graftingStageSensitivityWhat to do
Day 0–1AcceptanceDrying out, chillingWork quickly, cover with a damp cloth
Day 1–5Open larva, plenty of jellyHunger, chillingFeeding in the finisher; brief checks
Day 5–9Capping, cocoon, pupationHighest: jolting, turning upside down, chillingDon't touch; don't lay the frame flat
Day 10Hardened pupaModerateDistribution or protective cage
Day 11–12EmergenceThe first to emerge kills the othersLeave no cells until this day
Well-grown queen larvae in opened cells with royal jelly on top
Large queen larvae in cells close to capping; leftover royal jelly is visible at the top. Plenty of leftover jelly shows that the larva has not gone hungry. Photo: Waugsberg / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0

Why must queen cells be protected from cold?

Inside the hive the brood nest is kept at around 34–35 °C. A developing queen is very sensitive to deviations from this temperature: even brief chilling disrupts development, and severe chilling kills. Overheating (cells left in the sun or kept in a closed vehicle) is just as harmful.

  • Keep inspections short: Don't take the cell frame out unnecessarily; if you do, protect it from wind and sun.
  • Transport container: When moving between apiaries, use an insulated container warmed with a bottle of warm water; hold the cells steady with a towel or soft material.
  • Cool days: If the weather is cool, distribute around midday and close each hive before moving on to the next.

How should queen cells be carried? Jolts and position

In the days after capping the pupa is still soft and develops in a particular position inside the cell. That is why the cell must be held upright, tip pointing down.

  1. Keep it upright: Never lay a cell on its side or turn it upside down; don't turn the frame over to look at it either.
  2. Don't shake: Instead of shaking bees off the cell frame, remove them with a brush or a little smoke.
  3. Don't drop or knock: Avoid sudden movements when taking the bars out of the frame.
  4. Secure it in the vehicle: The transport container must not slide around in the vehicle; drive slowly on rough roads.
Queen pupa developing in an opened queen cell
A queen pupa inside the cell. Jolting or laying the cell on its side at this stage can cause the wings and legs to develop deformed. Photo: Waugsberg / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0

What is a protective cage for?

A protective cage fitted to a ripe cell (a wire spiral or plastic cage) keeps the queen inside even if she emerges early and stops her reaching the other cells. This gives a day or two of flexibility for distribution.

  • Fit the cage on day 9–10 after grafting, when the cells are ripe; fitting it earlier can prevent the bees from working the cell.
  • So that the emerged queen can be fed, the cage must allow bees to reach her, or contain a little candy.
  • Don't keep a queen that emerges in a cage for days; give her to a mating nuc as soon as possible.

Can queen cells be kept in an incubator?

Ripe cells can also be held in a controlled incubator. A temperature close to that of the brood nest (about 34–35 °C) and enough humidity to keep the cells from drying out are usually used. The cells must stand upright, each in its own compartment (or protective cage); otherwise the first queen to emerge kills the rest.

An incubator helps absorb hiccups on distribution day, but temperature swings or a power cut affect the whole batch. Checking the thermometer against a separate device and inspecting the incubator regularly are essential.

How are ripe queen cells distributed?

  1. Prepare the nuc: The mating nuc or split is left queenless for about a day before the cell is added; make sure there are no wild queen cells in it.
  2. Choose the spot: The cell goes in the warm central area where there is brood or a dense cluster of bees, between the top bars of two frames or on the comb face.
  3. Place it gently: Hold the cell by its top (the base or holder end) and don't squeeze the tip; press it lightly into the comb so it stands upright.
  4. Record it: Write the batch number and distribution date on the nuc.
Placing a ripe queen cell between the frames of a mating nuc
A ripe cell placed upright between the frames of a small mating nuc. Photo: APHA (National Bee Unit), Crown Copyright · Open Government Licence v3.0 (Crown Copyright)
Ripe queen cell given to a hive frame together with its holder
A ripe cell given with its plastic holder, pressed into the comb face. The holder makes it easier to handle the cell without squashing it. Photo: APHA (National Bee Unit), Crown Copyright · Open Government Licence v3.0 (Crown Copyright)

How do you judge queen cell quality?

Looking at a ripe cell gives a rough idea of the queen inside. A definitive assessment, however, can only be made from the queen's brood pattern.

  • Good cell: Long, well formed, thick-walled, with a pitted surface; the tip is intact.
  • Poor cell: Short, thin-walled, crooked or shrivelled; a hole or dent in the tip.
  • Suspect cell: A cell opened or holed in the side indicates that the queen inside was killed.

Poor cells should be culled; a colony started with a poor-quality queen lags behind all season and in the end has to be requeened.

Ripe queen cells of even length ready for distribution
Ripe cells ready for distribution: even length, thick wax walls and a pitted surface indicate a good batch. Photo: APHA (National Bee Unit), Crown Copyright · Open Government Licence v3.0 (Crown Copyright)

How do you check that queens have emerged?

Two or three days after distribution, the nucs can be checked with a short, quiet inspection. A cell whose tip has been opened neatly like a lid shows that the queen emerged healthy; the lid often stays attached to the cell like a hinge. A cell holed in the side, on the other hand, suggests the queen was killed by another queen or by the bees. A cell that has not opened at all is opened and examined a few days later; if there is a dead pupa inside, suspect chilling or damage.

After the young queen has emerged, do not open the nuc often while her mating flights are under way. Opening the nuc during flights and disturbing it frequently increases queen losses; leave the first proper check until the days when eggs are expected.

Frequently asked questions

How many days after capping can a queen cell be moved?

The safest day is day 10 after grafting. In the days immediately after capping the pupa is very sensitive; if you have no choice, keep the cell upright and warm and move it very gently.

What happens if a queen cell is laid on its side?

Laying it down briefly doesn't always kill it, but it can disturb the developing pupa's position and cause wing and leg deformities. Always keep the cell with its tip pointing down.

Can two queen cells be given to the same nuc?

They can, but since the first queen to emerge will kill the other, this only serves as a back-up; in routine production each nuc gets a single cell.

If a queen cell didn't hatch, when can a new one be given to the nuc?

Once the unopened cell has been checked and removed, a new ripe cell can be given straight away, after making sure there are no wild queen cells in the nuc.

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