Frame Transport and Storage

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Frame carrying and storage equipment covers the accessories used to lift frames safely out of the hive, keep them to one side during inspections, lift and move supers and hives, and store empty combs undamaged out of season: frame grips, frame perches, super lifters, hive carts, straps, comb racks and hangers. The right equipment protects the beekeeper's back, the comb and the bees. This page describes this equipment and the methods for storing comb safe from wax moth.

Why is frame carrying equipment needed?

A full honey frame weighs a few kilograms, and a full super weighs tens of kilograms. On a harvest day the beekeeper lifts this load many times over. The purpose of the equipment is:

  • Protecting the comb: Carrying the frame without jolting, dropping or crushing it.
  • Protecting the bees: Preventing crushed bees and the loss of the queen when frames are taken out and put back.
  • Protecting the beekeeper: Reducing the strain on the back and wrists.
  • Hygiene: Working without putting frames on the ground or letting them touch soil and grass.

Lidded frame carrying boxes and carrying frames in supers at harvest are covered in detail on the “Frame Carrying and Storage Boxes” page; this page focuses on equipment other than boxes.

Frame handling equipment at the hive

Frame grip

A tong-shaped metal grip that grasps the top bar of the frame from both sides. It lets you lift a frame stuck down with propolis with one hand, vertically and without jolting. It is safer than holding the thin bar with a gloved hand and reduces the risk of crushing bees.

Honey frame being lifted out of a super with a frame grip
A gloved hand lifts a honey frame vertically out of the super with a frame grip. The grip holds the top bar from both sides. Photo: Onésime / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0

Frame perch (frame rest)

A metal hanger that hooks onto the side of the hive or super. The first one or two frames removed during an inspection are hung on this perch; this makes room to work inside the hive, and the frame is not put on the ground. With a frame covered in bees, it also prevents the queen from falling off.

Hive tool

The basic tool of every beekeeper: it separates, lifts and scrapes stuck frames. The hooked end acts as a lever for lifting frames.

Super and hive carrying equipment

  • Super lifter: A frame set up beside the hive that lifts a super or hive body with a lever or crank. A beekeeper working alone can lift heavy supers without straining their back.
  • Hive cart: A two-wheeled barrow with a base the size of a hive. It makes it easier to move supers and hives within the apiary; wide wheels are preferred on rough ground.
  • Carrying handles and grips: Handles fitted to the hive body or used by two people together.
  • Hive strap: Holds the hive parts together; it stops the hive coming apart during transport and in migratory beekeeping.
Super lifter set up beside a hive
Super lifter: the frame set up beside the hive grips the top box and lifts it; in the lower image the box has been lifted. Photo: Psychedilly Circus / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hive being strapped before transport
A hive to be moved is strapped tightly; the body and lid will not separate on the way. Photo: APHA (National Bee Unit), Crown Copyright · Open Government Licence v3.0 (Crown Copyright)
Wooden hive carried by two beekeepers together
A heavy hive being carried by two people, upright and balanced. When lifting, use your legs, not your back. Photo: APHA (National Bee Unit), Crown Copyright · Open Government Licence v3.0 (Crown Copyright)
When lifting a full super, use your legs, not your back, and keep the load close to your body. On long harvest days, a lifter or hive cart protects your health.

Frame storage equipment

  • Comb racks: Open racks on which frames hang by their lugs. The combs do not touch each other, air circulates and checking is easy.
  • Ceiling hangers: Frames lined up on bars hanging from the ceiling save space and stay aired.
  • Comb cabinets: Tight, lidded cabinets; they stop frozen combs from being reinfested by moth.
  • Stacked supers: The most common method. The bottom and top are closed so that mice and moths cannot get in.
Empty frames stored on bars hung from the ceiling
Empty frames lined up on bars hung from the ceiling: this saves space and lets air circulate between the combs. Photo: Dirk Liesch / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 4.0

How should combs be stored to protect them from wax moth?

The greatest enemy of empty comb in storage is the wax moth (greater wax moth Galleria mellonella and lesser wax moth Achroia grisella). Its larvae feed on wax, pollen and cocoon residues and destroy comb by covering it in webbing. Comb left without bees can become unusable within a few weeks.

Empty hive frames covered in wax moth webbing
Severe wax moth damage on unprotected combs: the combs are covered in webbing, frass and cocoons. Photo: APHA (National Bee Unit), Crown Copyright · Open Government Licence v3.0 (Crown Copyright)
MethodHow is it done?Note
Cold storageA cool store or the winter coldMoths cannot develop in the cold; the most economical method
FreezingCombs are kept in a deep freezer for a day or twoKills all stages; afterwards they must be stored tightly closed
Light and airSuper combs are stacked criss-cross in a light, airy placeMoths like darkness and still air
SeparationBrood and super combs are stored separatelyOld combs with cocoons and pollen are attacked most
Authorised biological productsApplied to the comb according to the label instructionsSafer than chemicals in terms of residues

Naphthalene (mothballs) and similar chemicals leave residues in wax and honey; they are not used. Melting down old, darkened brood combs full of cocoons instead of storing them reduces both the moth risk and the disease load.

Hygiene and order in storage

  • Have the bees clean out the combs and dry them before storage; wet comb goes mouldy.
  • Make the store mouse-proof; mice chew and soil the comb.
  • Mark combs according to the apiary they came from; keep combs from hives suspected of disease separate and report them.
  • Check several times over the winter; immediately set aside and freeze any frame showing webbing or larvae.
  • Do not bring second-hand comb of unknown origin into your store.

Common mistakes

  • Putting frames on the ground or on grass during an inspection.
  • Lifting heavy supers alone, bending from the waist.
  • Not strapping the hive before moving it.
  • Leaving empty combs unchecked in a warm, dark, enclosed place.
  • Using naphthalene in the store.

Frequently asked questions

Is a frame perch really necessary?

It is not essential, but it is very useful: the removed frame is not put on the ground, room is made to work in the hive, and the risk of losing the queen is reduced.

How long should combs be kept in the freezer?

A day or two in a deep freezer is enough. After taking them out, store them in a closed box that moths cannot get into.

Can empty combs be stored outside in winter?

In cold regions they can be stored in an airy place protected from mice and rain. Cold is good protection against wax moth.

Do I need a super lifter?

If you work alone with many hives or have back problems, it makes things considerably easier.

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