A mating box is a very small colony set up for a queen to emerge, mate and begin laying. The aim is to mate many queens with as few bees as possible.

Choosing a size

The smaller the box, the fewer bees it consumes — but small brings risk.

• Mini boxes: Very few bees; many can be run. Against that the heat balance is poor, they are exposed to robbing and they need frequent checking
• Nucleus size: More balanced. It defends itself, lasts longer and can be turned into a colony if needed

For a beginner nucleus size is markedly more forgiving.

Setting up

• Some young bees and a few frames
• Honey and pollen; feeding if there is no flow
• Extra bees shaken in, because foragers return to the parent hive
• A very narrow entrance
• Closing for a day or two, or moving it away, helps the bees stay

Giving the cell

A mature cell is given before the queen emerges. It must be kept upright, not shaken and not chilled.

Layout — the critical point

A significant part of queen loss happens on the mating flight, and much of that is from entering the wrong box.

• Face the boxes in different directions
• Use distinct colours and shapes around the entrances
• Do not set identical boxes in a row
• Make use of natural markers

A queen entering the wrong box is killed.

The mating period

The queen matures for a few days after emerging, then flies to mate in suitable weather.

The box should not be opened during this time. Seeing eggs confirms that mating succeeded.

Care

• Small boxes run short of food quickly; regular feeding is needed
• Keep the entrance narrow against robbing
• After a few cycles a frame of sealed brood is needed
• At the end of the season boxes are united or built up for winter

The cycle

Once the queen is removed a new cell is given and the cycle continues. Each cycle weakens the box a little; reinforcement must be planned.