The smoker is the beekeeper's oldest and most effective tool. Used correctly it makes inspection easier; used wrongly it harms both the colony and the product.

How smoke works

Two mechanisms operate together:

• It masks the alarm pheromone. The defensive signal does not spread and the response does not propagate
• It triggers feeding behaviour. The bees turn to eating honey; a bee with a full stomach is less aggressive and slower to move

Choosing fuel

There is one criterion: cool, dense, clean smoke.

• Natural, unprocessed plant material is preferred: dry grass, pine needles, sawdust, dry leaves, hessian
• Painted, treated or chemically containing material must not be used; residues pass into the honey
• The fuel should be dry but should not flare up

Hot smoke burns the bees and provokes the colony. Testing it on the back of your hand is a simple check.

Lighting and keeping it going

• Start with easily lit material and add material that gives dense smoke
• Fill the smoker; a loosely filled smoker goes out
• Puff it occasionally through the inspection; a smoker going out mid-job is a nuisance
• Keep the lid closed

Use

• Use little. A few puffs are enough for most colonies
• One or two puffs at the entrance, then wait a few seconds
• A light puff as the roof is lifted
• Do not blow directly onto the bees; use it from the side to direct them
• Reduce it during harvest. Heavy smoke carries into the aroma of the honey

Safety

The smoker is the tool most often responsible for fires in beekeeping.

• Do not set it down on dry grass
• Extinguish it or carry it in a metal box with a lid
• Do not put it in a vehicle while hot
• Make sure it is out before leaving the apiary
• The body gets very hot; guarded models protect the hand

Working without smoke

With calm lines and in suitable weather, experienced beekeepers can work without smoke. Some use a water spray instead.

But smoke is the one tool that must be to hand if an unexpected defensive response occurs. Carrying it does not mean you must use it.