Protein feeding addresses a different need from syrup. Sugar provides energy; pollen provides the protein without which no brood can be reared.

Why it matters

A colony with honey but no pollen cannot rear brood. This is the commonest hidden limitation in early spring — the stores look adequate and the colony still fails to build up.

When it is justified

• Early spring before the first pollen flow, to start brood rearing
• Persistent pollen shortage, for example in monoculture
• Late summer, when winter bees are being reared and their fat bodies built
• Colonies used continuously for royal jelly
• After a long forage interruption

The late-summer case is the most consequential: what a winter bee lives on for months is the fat body built from protein at that time.

Natural pollen is better

The amino acid composition of pollen varies by plant species. One source gives an incomplete protein package, and an artificial mix approximates natural variety only partly.

Stored pollen from your own colonies, given back when needed, is the best substitute there is.

Substitutes

Protein patties are placed directly on the frames above the brood nest, where the nurse bees are.

• Give small amounts that will be consumed; leftovers attract pests
• Place above the brood, not at the edge
• Some mixes contain a proportion of real pollen, which improves acceptance

What it does not fix

A colony weakened by Varroa, damp or a failing queen does not improve with protein feeding. The order is: find the cause, then supplement.

The better answer

Improving the forage does more than any supplement — and it supports wild pollinators at the same time.

Staggered mowing, late-flowering species and single-flowered varieties often produce results within one season.

Rules

Do not feed with supers on. Pollen bought from unknown sources can carry disease; feeding back your own is safer.