Extracted honey does not go straight into jars. Settling and straining are the stage that determines how the product in the jar looks.

Why it is settled

Air is mixed into the honey during extraction and fine wax particles pass through. Left standing, these rise to the surface.

The foam layer that forms is skimmed off. If this step is skipped the honey in the jar looks cloudy and frothy.

The settling tank

• Material: Stainless steel or food-grade plastic
• A tap at the bottom: Honey is drawn from below and the foam stays above
• A lid: Keeps out dust and moisture; honey draws water from the air
• A conical base: Makes emptying easier

Time and temperature

Settling time depends on the consistency of the honey and the ambient temperature. Bubbles rise faster in a warm room.

But the temperature must not be excessive; heat breaks down enzymes and raises the marker used to assess ageing.

Long standing can start crystallisation; the time should be kept balanced.

Strainers

• Coarse strainer: Removes wax pieces and larger debris. Sufficient for most beekeepers
• Two-stage strainer: Coarse and medium together
• Bag strainer: Hangs in the tank and gives a large surface

The drawback of over-filtering

Very fine filtration removes the pollen grains as well. The honey becomes visually clearer but the trace of its geographical origin is erased.

Origin cannot be proved in honey from which pollen has been removed. This is why over-filtering is viewed with suspicion in many places.

Coarse straining is sufficient and preserves the product's defensibility.

Moisture

Honey is hygroscopic. The settling room must be dry and the tank kept covered.

Honey standing open in a damp room takes up water and the risk of fermentation follows.

Cleaning

Tank and strainers are washed after every use and dried completely. Residual honey goes mouldy; wax accumulating in strainers causes blockages the following season.